PM Narendra Modi ups fashion ante for maiden US visit.
New Delhi:
Narendra Modi is pulling out all the fashion stops for his upcoming visit to
the US, hiring a top Mumbai designer to create outfits that will sell his
vision of a newly confident, aspirational India. India’s politicians are often
mocked by media for their crumpled traditional cotton shirt-and-pyjama attire,
which serves as an austerity badge in a nation where simple living is prized as
a political credo.
But fashion experts say Modi, 64, has taken Indian political
dress to a new level with his fastidious style, favouring crisp, half-sleeved
linen, khadi or silk kurtas—shirts—and churidar pyjamas he pairs with tailored
Nehru jackets.
A former tea boy who rose to the top, Modi has embraced a look
of prosperity and power, in line with his message of economic reform, and is
credited with demonstrating that Indian men don’t have to forego traditional
wear to look well-dressed. “He’s selling aspirational India,” said Nilanjan
Mukhopadhyay, author of one the few biographies on the secretive leader, adding
that Modi’s affinity for traditional wear ties into his nationalist image.
Modi’s use of colour makes him a fashion standout—from canary yellow, to lime
green to skyblue and an in-your-face saffron, one of his ruling Bharatiya
Janata Party’s (BJP’s) colours, aside from elegant cream. The move to hire Troy
Costa, who designs for Bollywood stars, has given rise to speculation Modi
might adopt a more sober suit and tie for his US visit. But Costa, who defines
his label as “focusing on modern masculinity and flattering functionality”, is
keeping the garment bag firmly in place over what he will design for Modi’s
barrel-chested frame.
“I’d rather let my product speak than me personally,” the
39-year-old told AFP. In Costa, Modi has chosen a clone of himself—someone from
a humble background who pulled himself up by the bootstraps. “I have no vices—I
don’t drink, I don’t smoke, I don’t love parties, I try to spend 14-to-15 hours
a day working and I thank god I’m doing what I love,” Costa told AFP. In from
the cold Modi’s White House welcome will be a remarkable transformation for a
man once refused a US visa, after being accused of failing to stop 2002 riots
by Hindu extremists against Muslims when he was chief minister of Gujarat.
Modi
has always denied any wrong-doing. But while India’s Prime Minister looks set
to dress snappily during the visit, there will still be a clear nod to his
strictly observant Hindu and teetotal vegetarian lifestyle. The trip coincides
with the Navratri festival during which Modi has always observed a nine-day
fast. Despite the hectic schedule, he is expected to restrict himself to a
liquid diet of lemonade and tea for much of the visit, eschewing the lavish
meals that traditionally characterize such trips. Commentators say Modi is
acutely aware of the image he wants to portray—a self-made man who hasn’t
forgotten his roots. GQ India editor Che Kurrien said Modi, who won his
sweeping mandate in May with backing from India’s young, upwardly mobile
voters, had a “keen eye for what makes him look good”.
“It’s clear details
matter to Mr Modi, from his designer eyewear, to his watch, to his
waistcoat—every part of his image counts,” he told AFP. Once in a while Modi,
likes to mix Western attire with Indian—sporting a Texan cowboy hat for
instance. But he’s best known for his signature half-sleeved kurta known as the
Modi Kurta—men’s kurtas are normally long-sleeved.
The tailor who refined the
design, Bipin Chauhan of clothing chain Jade Blue, has trademarked the
style—with Modi’s permission. His style sense has drawn potshots from opponents
such as powerful socialist Samajwadi Party leader Mulayam Singh Yadav, an
old-style politician who cares not a jot about his appearance.
During the
election campaign, Yadav wondered aloud how much time Modi would have to run
the country when he “changes 500 kurtas a day and wears a new kurta to every meeting”.
But most observers seem to be happy with a leader who looks good on the
national and international stages. “Seems like the era of unkempt, paan-chewing
netas (leaders) with pot-bellies, crumpled dhotis and discoloured kurtas is a
thing of the past,” commented news magazine India Toda.
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